Method of laying out a skirt-pattern.



H. J. KRAMER.

METHOD OF LAYING OUT A SKIRT PATTERN.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 17, 1913.

1,098,737. I Patented June 2, 1914.

Witnesses. Inventor.

. H U. K a byg dw lfi' A tIy's.

TED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY J. KRAMER, OF DORGHES'IER, MASSACHUSETTS.

METHOD OF LAYING OUT A SKIRT-PATTERN.

To all whom it may concern."

Be it known that I, I'IARRY J. KRAMER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Dorchester, county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Methods of Laying Out a Skirt- Pattern, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

This invention has for its object to pro vide a novel method by which a skirt can be quickly and accurately laid out and by means of which a skirt can be made so that it will always hang in the same position regardless of the position of the waist line of the per son for whom the skirt is made.

The features wherein my invention resides will be more fully hereinafter described and then pointed out in the appended claims.

The drawings which show a selected embodiment of my invention illustrate the steps taken in carrying out my invention.

In carrying out my invention it lay out the skirt pattern by angular measurements and in this way I am able to secure a skirt which has the fullness at any desired points and which will hang evenly without any necessity of altering the bottom edge of the skirt after it is made.

in laying out a skirt pattern 1 first take the hip measurement of the person for whom the skirt is to be made at an even distance from the floor, and then 1 determine the number of gores or breadths to be put into the skirt and the amount of fullness which is to be put into each section or gore of the skirt, which amount will vary in accordance with the style of the skirt and the way it is desired to have the skirt hang, and also determine the width of the various gores at the hip, this determination being secured from the hip measure. 1 then draw the base line 1, 2 on the paper from which the pattern is to be cut. 1 then determine in degrees the amount of fullness which is to be put in any particular section or gore of the skirt;

for instance in one of the front gores, and if the amount of fullness which is desired for this gore is 5,1 draw from some point 3 on the base line 1, 2 a hip line 4 which is 2% oif from the perpendicular, that is, which makes an angle of 87-1- with the base line. it then measure eif on this hip line i from the point 3 a distance equal to the width Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed July 17, 1913.

Patented June 2, 1914. Serial No. 779,431.

desired for the gore or breadth of the skirt in question at the hips thus determining the point 5 and through point 5 I draw a line 6, 7 which makes the same angle with the line 41 as the latter makes with the line 1, 2. The angle between the lines 1, 2 and 6, is the number of degrees of fullness in said gore. I then draw from the point 5 a hip 1111c 8 which varies from a perpendicular line by one half the number of degrees of fullness which are to go into the next adjacent gore or breadth of skirt. 1 then measure off on this line 8 from the point 5 a distance equal to the width of said gore or breadth at the hips, which is determined by the hip measure of the person for which the skirt is being made and the style of the skirt, thus determining the point 9 and through the point 9 I draw a line 10, 11 which has the same angle to the line 8 as the latter has to the line 6, 7. When this is done the angle between the lines 6, 7 and 10, 11 will be equal to the number of degrees of fullness that are to be put into this breadth of the skirt. 1 then draw from the point 9 the hip line 12 at an angle to the line 10, 11 which varies from a right angle by one half the number of degrees of fullness to be put into the third gore, and after determining the length of the line 12, as above described, the line 13, 14 is drawn through the point 25 on the line 12 so as to make the same angle with said line 12 as the latter does to the line 10, 11. The line 13, 14; will thus have an angle to the line 10, 11 equal to the number of degrees of fullness to be put into the third gore of the skirt. This operation is repeated until all the gores or breadths for one-half the skirt have been laid out and if the skirt is to have eight gores then half the skirt will have four gores laid out as illustrated in the drawings. The lines 6, 7; 10, 11; 13, 1 1; and 15, 16 are then each extended until it meets the next adjacent line. If all the gores of the skirt have the same amount of fullness therein then these lines will all meet at a common point, but if the various gores have different degrees of fullness therein, then said lines will meet at different points. The drawings show the construction with each succeeding gore having an increased amount of fullness therein, and where this is the case the line 6, 7 will meet the base line 1, 2 at a point 17 the line 10, 11 will meet the line 6, 7

at a point 18; the line 13, 1 will meet the line 10, 11 at a point 19 and the line 15, 16 will meet the line A, 15 at a point 20.

The combined length of the lines 4, 8, 1'2 and 21 constitute one-half the size of the skirt at the hip. After the pattern has been drawn in as above described, the bottom line of the skirt is determined by measuring down from the point 3 on the line 1, 2 a distance equal to the measure from the hip of the person for whom the skirt is being made to the distance from the fioor at which it is desired that the skirt should hang, thus determining the point 22 and an are 23 is then struck between the lines 1, 2 and 6, 7 from the point 17 as a center. This are is continued between the lines 6, 7 and 10, 11 as at 24 by using the point 18 as a center and the points 19 and 20 are used as centers for drawing the arcs 26 and 27. The contour of these combiner arcs 23, 24, 26 and 27 represent the proper shape and contour for the bottom of the skirt. After the bottom of the skirt is thus drawn, I then draw the waist line 28, 29 at the proper distance from the bottom line of the pattern and to conform to the particular shape of the waist line of the person for whom the skirt is being made. In determining thecontour of the waist line 1 take the measure of said person from the floor to the waist line at a plurality of points, such for instance as at the front, back and sides, and from these measurements I determine the proper points for the waist line of the pattern at the sides and front and back by laying 0E from the bottom line of the pattern, the measures taken from the person and having determined such waist line points, I then sketch the waist line in. By this method the waist line will be drawn at a uniform distance from the bottom line if the measures taken so indi cate or may be drawn so as to present a waist line which is lower in the front than it is in the back or vice versa according to the waist line shape of the person.

In the drawings 1 have shown a. waist line which is lower in the front than in the back. In any event, the waist line is determined from the bottom line of the skirt and in this respect my method di'fiers from that commonly employed wherein the waist line is first drawn and further measurements are based on or drawn from the waist line. After the waist line is determined, the lines 30 representing the outline of the gores between the hip and the waist line are sketched in in accordance with the waist measure and the shape of the hips of the person for whom the skirt is to be made.

It will be noted that in accordance with my invention the hip line and the line for the bottom of the skirt are determined in dependently of the waist line and that the waist line is determined from the bottom line of the skirt. The advantage of this is that the skirt will always hang in the same position at the hips and bottom regardless of the position of the waist line of the person for since the latter is determined from the bottom line, it can be drawn to conform to individual shapes without affecting the hang of the skirt at the hip and bottom.

While 1 have shown in the drawings onehalf a skirt pattern having eight gores, yet it will be obvious that the invention is equally applicable for cutting a skirt hav ing any number of gores and with any amount of fullness in the individual gores. I would also state that my invention can be employed in laying out a one-piece skirt, in which case the same steps would be performed except that the pattern would not be cut to form separate gores but would present a single piece which would be cut out simply along the lines 30 to provide for properly fitting over the hip.

A skirt made in accordance with my invention will have the characteristic that all the seams will hang in vertical lines.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of laying out a skirt pattern which consists in establishing a base line, drawing a hip line lat-sally therefrom at'an angle which varies from a right angle by one-half the number of degrees of fullness that is to be incorporated in any gore 7 of the skirt, laying 01% on said hip line from the base line adistance equal to the hip measure of said gore, drawing a line through the point thus determined at an angle to the hip line which varies from a right angle by one-half said number of degrees of fullness and then repeating said operation for the next gore using the last drawn line as a base line until all the gores of the skirt have been laid out.

2. The method of laying out a skirt pattern which consists in establishing a base line, drawing a hip line laterally therefrom at an angle which varies from a right angle by one-half the number of degrees of fullness that is to be incorporated in any gore of the skirt, laying off on said hip line from the base line a distance equal to the hip measure of said gore, drawing a line through the point thus determined at an angle to the hip line equal to the angle between said hip line and base line, and then repeating said operation for the next gore using the last drawn line as a base line until all the gores of the skirt have been laid out and then striking arcs from the intersecting of the bounding lines of the various gores to determine the bottom line of the skirt.

3. The method of laying out. a skirt pattern which consists in establishing a base line, drawing a hip line laterally therefrom at an angle which varies from a right angle by one-half the number of degrees of fullness that is to be incorporated in any gore oi the skirt, laying off on said hip line from the base line a distance equal to the hip measure of said gore, drawing a line through the point thus determined at an angle to the base line equal to the angle between the base line and hip line, repeating this operation for the next gore using the last drawn line as a. base line until all the gores of the skirt have been laid out, striking arcs from the intersection of the bounding lines of the various gores to determine the bottom line of the skirt, and then determining the position of the Waist line by laying oii a plurality of measurements from the bottom line. In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

HARRY J. KRAMER. Witnesses:

LOUIS 0. SMITH, THOMAS J. DRUMMOND.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of ZPatents, Washington, D. O. 

